What are the natural alternatives to synthetic ingredients we use?

Tue, 03/09/2010

All skin care products, both synthetic and natural, contain items from the following seven categories in some combinations or other: emollients, humectants, emulsifiers, surfactants preservatives, color and fragrance.

 

Emollients / lubricants

Emollients serve two functions; they prevent dryness and protect the skin, acting as a barrier and healing agent. Water is the best emollient, but because it evaporates quickly it is ineffective. It needs to be held on the skin by emollient oils in what is called an emulsion.

Common synthetic emollients - are occlusive i.e. they coat the skin with an oily film to lock in moisture. This, however, also prevents your skin from breathing since they trap in toxins and wastes, clog pores and by keeping oxygen out, which can cause skin irritation and ironically actually dry the skin. They are also non-biodegradable, causing a negative environmental impact. Hydrocarbons such as mineral oil, petrolatum and paraffin are the most commonly used synthetic emollients. They contain carcinogenic and mutagenic Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs) and can cause chemically induced acne.

Omved natural emollients: actually nourish the skin. They are metabolised by the skin’s own enzymes and absorbed into it. They are readily biodegradable and are of edible quality. Some natural emollients plant oils that we use are - Jojoba, Avocado, Rosehip, Olive and Sesame oils and Kokum, Shea and Cocoa butters.
 

Humectants

The main purpose of humectants in cosmetics is to keep the skin moist by attracting water from the air. They are hygroscopic (attract water from the surrounding air) and hold water where an increased level of hydration is needed.

Common synthetic humectants - while they increase the hydration levels of the skin they are occlusive (form a suffocating film on the skin to prevent moisture loss, and preventing normal cellular function). Propylene Glycol (PG), Polyethylene Glycol (PEG), Butylene Glycol (BG), & Thylene Glycol (EG): are all petroleum derivatives that are common wetting agents. They can easily penetrate the skin and are noted to inhibit skin cell growth and damage cell membranes in human tests. PG causes skin irritation, contact dermatitis, eye, skin, and gastrointestinal irritations, allergic reactions and rashes, nausea, headache, vomiting, and central nervous system depression. Collagen, elastin and keratin enjoy some popularity as humectants. Whilst they are compatible with the skin and deposit a protective film, they are usually sourced from animals and therefore cannot be termed “cruelty free”.

Omved natural humectants: lecithin, increases the hydration levels of the skin without being occlusive. The unique benefit it offers is it forms natural phospholipids similar to the ones found in the top layer of our skin and thus can hold water where an increased level of hydration is needed. Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) and Glycerin are also used.
 

Emulsifiers

Emulsifiers are used to bind ingredients together that normally don’t mix, such as water and oil.

Common synthetic emulsifiers: are usually a combination of petroleum and hydrocarbon derivatives, which are carcinogenic in nature and can be allergens. Alkoxykated Amides (eg TEA, DEA, MEA, MIPA compounds): Can undergo nitrosation to form nitrosamines, which are known carcinogens. PEG compounds: May contain the toxic byproduct dioxane. Sorbitan Stearate, Laurate, Palmitate, Oleate etc. Ozokerite, Ceresin, Silicone and Montan Waxes. Isopropyl Stearate, Laurate, Palmitate, Oleate etc

Omved natural emulsifiers: are obtained from various nuts, berries and leaves. These include plant Waxes (e.g. Carnauba, Jojoba, Rice Bran) Xanthan Gum Quince Seed.
 

Surface-active-agents or surfactants

Surface-active-agents are substances used to dissolve oil and hold dirt in suspension so it can be rinsed away with water.

Common synthetic surfactants: A serious problem with ethoxylated surfactants (those that utilise ethylene or propylene oxide in the chemical reaction) is that they can be contaminated with dioxane, a potent carcinogen. These surfactants are listed on labels as ingredients ending with –eth, (like laureth: Sodium or Ammonium Lauryl or Laureth Sulphate,) or containing the phrase PEG (PolyEthylene Glycol), or PPG (PolyPropylene Glycol). Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, also known as Sodium laurel sulfate or can be found in almost any kind of cleaning agent, and is widely used because it produces the foamy, bubbly texture we have come to expect of these products. It causes irritation on contact with skin, eyes, and mucous membranes, and can cause allergic reactions. Tests on lab animals indicate that long-term exposure may cause mutagenic effects. SLS is rapidly absorbed and retained in the eyes, brain, heart, and liver, which may result in harmful long-term effects. Some pseudo -natural products containing this substance try to mislead the consumer with the phrase "derived from coconut", but don't be fooled.

Another dangerous class of surfactants are amides. These are listed on labels containing the term TEA – TriEthanolAmine, DEA – DiEthanolAmine and MEA, MonoEthanolAmine. All compounds containing TEA, DEA and MEA can undergo nitrosation with other synthetic chemicals to form nitrosamines, which are carcinogenic.

Omved natural surfactants: castile soap (completely olive oil based), and aritha (soapnuts) and shikakai or soapnuts which are Saponin(natural foaming agents) -containing plants and have a long history of use as mild cleaning agents in Ayurveda. They gently cleanse the hair, skin and scalp without stripping the natural oils.
 

Preservatives

The decaying process is natural and happens with or without preservatives. Skin care products do not (and should not) last for ever. Just like food, all natural skin care products will eventually deteriorate and go rancid. The effectiveness, not safety, of synthetic chemical preservatives has only been “proven” by animal testing. Synthetic chemical preservatives are generally used because they are much cheaper than, and extend the shelf life of the product more than natural alternatives.

Common synthetic preservatives: are added to skincare products to maintain its freshness. Probably the most common synthetic ingredients found even in so-called "natural" products are these chemicals broadly referred to as "parabens”: Methyl, Propyl, Butyl and Ethyl Paraben. Considered "food grade" preservatives, they are also unfortunately found in products we consume. They are typically used as preservatives to inhibit the growth of microbes and to extend the shelf life of products. Parabens are known to cause various allergic reactions and skin irritations and rashes. Imidazolidinyl Urea and Diazolidinyl Urea: These are the second most commonly used preservatives next to parabens. They have long been recognized as a primary cause of skin irritations. In addition, they release formaldehyde, a toxic chemical, at very low temperatures (just over 10°). Neither one is particularly good at inhibiting the growth of fungus, so they need to be combined with other preservatives, which just adds to the potential toxic load in a product.

Omved natural preservatives: are Tea tree and thyme essential oil, grapefruit seed extract and D-Alpha Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E). These preservatives are derived from natural sources and are permitted in certified natural cosmetics (for example, sodium benzoate, a preservative also used in food). Storing your natural skin care products in the fridge will also keep them fresh longer. A mild preservative is included only when there is no other way of properly conserving a product.
 

Synthetic colors

Synthetic colors are used to make products more attractive, not more functional.

Common synthetic colors: They are usually listed on the label as FD&C or D&C, along with a colour and number. (e.g. FD&C Yellow No. 5). Synthetic colours are typically derived from petroleum or coal, and are found in a wide variety of food products and pet foods, as well as in drugs, cosmetics, and personal care products. Most do not fade during processing and storing, giving them an advantage over natural colouring agents. Since most synthetic colours can potentially cause some sort of adverse reaction, even if we avoid heavy consumption of one, we are likely consuming others, which adds to the toxic load overall. It's best to simply avoid synthetic colours altogether.

Omved natural colors: we don’t use any colouring in our products: natural or synthetic. The colour naturally comes from the extracts and essential oils in the formulations.
 

Synthetic fragrances

Fragrance chemicals are compounds that volatilize, or vaporize into the air - that's why we can smell them. They are added to products to give them a scent or to mask the odour of other ingredients. The volatile organic chemicals (VOCs) emitted by fragrance products can contribute to poor indoor air quality and are associated with a variety of adverse health effects. Exposure to fragrance chemicals can cause headaches, eye, nose, and throat irritation, rashes, hyper-pigmentation of the skin, nausea, vomiting, coughing, forgetfulness, loss of coordination, dizziness, and other respiratory and/or neuro-toxic symptoms. Many fragrance ingredients are respiratory irritants and sensitizers, which can trigger asthma attacks and aggravate sinus conditions. Fragrance chemicals are the number one cause of allergic reactions to cosmetics -- not only to the primary users, but also to those who breathe in the chemicals as second-hand users. Phthalates in fragrances are known to disrupt hormones and are linked in animal studies to reproductive impairments. Typically these chemicals are identified by the word "Fragrance" on the label. If you see it listed, don't buy it.
 

Omved natural fragrances

In order to achieve the required holistic balancing effect through the sense of smell, we use only pure therapeutic grade essential oils in small quantities.
 

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